Ham and butter right or left? What about Nicoise salad? And the Savoy fondue? This week, between two rounds, authors, vintners, restaurateurs and historians have had issues with the political affiliation of dishes. Today: ham and butter.
If there is one topic that divides around the table, it is politics. Yes, and the dishes themselves can be a subject of controversy. Take, just in case, Burgundy beef: for the publisher Antonin Iommi-Amunategui (Nouriturfu), it is impossible to delay, “This is decidedly the right dish. It’s all said in a nutshell: first beef, good bidosh good in saucewhose breeding is known one of the four or five major environmental wounds. Then Burgundy, the most traditional region in the world.” But then what would the dish on the left look like? “With sauerkraut of course” wine merchant Mathieu Levy (Semele, Paris, XIe) answers: “This is a cheap, vitamin C-rich, easy-to-storage dish that could save the entire population from winter hunger. And then, despite the variations, we can talk about the union of sauerkraut.
Because that’s what’s at stake in this dishonest, and therefore fascinating, debate: according to his very personal definition of left or right, the plates are bursting from one end of the political spectrum. To continue this week’s fighting between two rotations, let’s ask annoying questions. Today: Ham and Butter Sandwich Right or Left?
“Ham with Butter – Right … with nuances”: Nicolas Kaiser-Briel (author of the book Voracism and from amazing food, ed. Nuriturfu)
“When we think of ham and butter, we think of the urban proletariat of the late 19th century. What is characteristic of the urban proletariat in the 19th century is bread buttered with another food: coffee. And this choice is not innocent, because the proletariat of that time could eat lentil soup or seed puree, as I gave it. Now this triptych was chosen specifically as a counterweight to what the peasants ate, who ate porridge, or baked bread every six months (including because they dipped bread in soup or wine). Bread and butter is a way to distinguish yourself; it must be in opposition to peasant poverty. And inevitably bread and butter puts into perspective this pitiful side of the Left, the “cursed of the earth.” Working food is eaten as opposed to the food of those who are even more unhappy. The proletarians of that time knew this very well, France was very rural. Not to mention ham, which is a luxury: in the village, no one ate sausages every day. I’m still convinced that ham and butter is…